Founded during the 4th century, the auspicious Awashima Shrine is located along the hilly coastline near Kada Port in Wakayama Prefecture. Every year, thousands of pre-loved dolls and figurines are sent here from all over Japan, many of which are then displayed throughout the tiny grounds of the shrine. The shrine is also famous as the birthplace of the Dolls Festival in Japan, held annually on March 3. On this day at Awashima Shrine, Hina dolls (the dolls that represent the Imperial Family) are placed in little wooden boats with messages of thanks and prayers of good fortune for the former owners and the world and floated out to the Seto Inland Sea.
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The main hall at Awashima Shrine. Photo by Estelle Pizer
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A close-up of the two of the thousands of pre-loved dolls in the grounds of Awashima Shrine. Photo by Estelle Pizer
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Dolls in Japan
In Shintoism, one of the two major religions in Japan, a fundamental principle is that everything has a soul or spirit. This includes inanimate objects, particularly those with a human-like appearance such as dolls. Dolls are a form of protection from evil and a keeper of secrets for children, not just a pretty plaything. Once a child no longer has use for a doll, it is disrespectful to simply discard it. Families take the dolls to shrines where there are burning ceremonies at certain times of the year to thank these dolls for their love and kindness and for keeping the child safe. There are other memorial ceremonies for daruma dolls, sewing needles, brushes and combs, as part of this Shinto practice.
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There are many types of figurines including these tanuki, a trickster animal that has a similar function to the beckoning cats – encouraging people to come inside. Photo by Estelle Pizer
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Awashima Shrine Buildings
Awashima Shrine is the head shrine of one thousand Awashima Shrines in Japan. The deities enshrined here are connected to the protection of women, women’s health, fertility, safe pregnancy and childbirth and love relationships. The main hall, painted in bright vermillion, was rebuilt in 1979. All around this are thousands of dolls and figurines on display arranged by doll type. There is a small shrine office which sells good luck charms, and entrance tickets to the Treasure Hall, if it is open.
The Treasure Hall is as it sounds – a hall of treasures. There are some very, very old dolls including dolls from the girls in one of the most important clans in Japanese history, the Tokugawa Clan who ruled Japan between the 17th and mid-19th centuries. There is also a basement area which is not ever open to the public. It is here that dolls that are believed to contain strong negative energy, or that have unusual phenomena occurring around them are housed. One famous doll was sent here as the owners noticed that its hair was growing. Another doll was apparently able to perform resuscitative techniques on humans. It is certainly one of the most unique shrines in Japan.![]()
Part of the Maneki Neko, the beckoning cat, section in the gardens at Awashima Shrine. Photo by Estelle Pizer
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But Wait There’s More!
Apart from dolls that some speculate are cursed, there are other hidden objects at Awashima Shrine. Any figures relating to fertility such as phallus sculptures are no longer on public display. There is also an area where women can drop off their used underpants or bras (after washing and preferably being placed in a discrete pouch) as an offering to the shrine Gods for good health in that region. The underpants used to be on public display but, due to theft, that is no longer permitted. Finally, make sure to pass through the hole in the pillar next to the main shrine. It is said that good health and good fortune will come to those who do this.
There are a few, popular seafood restaurants in the area leading up to and around Awashima Shrine. The sunset looking out across the ocean is said to be so very beautiful that there are poems written about it in Manyo-shu, the very first collection of Japanese poetry from the 8th century.![]()
There is a small section for Daruma, the goal setting doll. Colour in the left eye when making your wish and when it comes true, colour in the other eye and take it to the shrine. Photo by Estelle Pizer
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Access
From Wakayama Station, take the Kisei Line (JR West) to Wakamayashi Station. Transfer to the Nankai Kada Line and disembark at Kada Station. That takes about 35 minutes. From there it’s a 20-minute walk to the shrine. Always check the Japan Travel by Navitime route finder for the best option on your day of travel, as trains out here are very limited and missing your scheduled train could result in a long wait for the next.
By car from Wakayama station, it’s a 35-minute drive. There is limited free parking on site. Visitors to the shrine can get 30 minutes free of charge by presenting their parking ticket at the shrine office. Otherwise, it is best to park further along the road towards Kada Port.
Address: Awashima Shrine, 118 Kada, Wakayama City, Wakayama Prefecture
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