Tanabata: Celebrating the Star Festival in Style


2023.07.07

NAVITIME TRAVEL EDITOR

Tanabata: Celebrating the Star Festival in Style

Tanabata is a Japanese festival celebrated on July 7. If you’re in Japan around that time, you’ll likely notice the poles of leafy bamboo (real or fake) that appear in shopping centers, city halls, and schools, hung with colorful paper strips bearing handwritten wishes. If you’re up for a more exciting Tanabata experience, however, there are a few appealing options. Read on for an overview of Tanabata’s history and a few recommended Tanabata Festivals across the country.

  • 01

    The Weaver Girl and the Cowherd

    Tanabata has a long and complicated history. The most obvious source is the Chinese festival of Qixi, which marks the annual meeting of the Weaver and the Cowherd—a celestial couple corresponding to the stars Vega and Altair respectively. In some versions of the myth, their love is forbidden; in others, they anger the Emperor of Heaven by neglecting their duties; in any case they are banished to opposite banks of the Milky Way, only able to meet by crossing a bridge of birds that forms on the seventh day of the seventh lunar month.

    The tale of the Weaver and the Cowherd appears in Chinese sources dating back thousands of years. In Japan, where the two are known as Orihime (“Weaving Princess”) and Hikoboshi (“Boy Star”), the story arrived at least early enough to be mentioned in a poem by seventh-century poet Hitomaro. In 755, Empress Koken imported another custom associated with Qixi: qiqiaodian (“begging for skills”), which involved women making offerings and threading needles on Tanabata night in the hopes of becoming better sewers and weavers. Meanwhile, the actual word tanabata is traced to yet another ancient custom, this one indigenous to Japan, of weaving a garment to be offered to the kami in the seventh lunar month.

    All of these traditions blended together over the centuries, and in the early modern period Tanabata began to evolve into a more equal-opportunity event in which boys and girls (and men and women) wrote various self-improving requests on strips of paper that were hung from bamboo poles. Today, the romantic aspect of the Tanabata backstory is also emphasized, making it a popular occasion for a romantic summer date.

    All of these traditions blended together over the centuries, and in the early modern period Tanabata began to evolve into a more equal-opportunity event in which boys and girls (and men and women) wrote various self-improving requests on strips of paper that were hung from bamboo poles. Today, the romantic aspect of the Tanabata backstory is also emphasized, making it a popular occasion for a romantic summer date.

    An ukiyo-e print by Hiroshige showing bamboo poles hung with wishes over the rooftops of Edo in the mid-1800s
Utagawa Hiroshige, Public domain, via Wikimedia

    An ukiyo-e print by Hiroshige showing bamboo poles hung with wishes over the rooftops of Edo in the mid-1800s Utagawa Hiroshige, Public domain, via Wikimedia

  • 02

    Celebrating the Star Festival

    Tanabata has been around so long in Japan that there are special festivals and rituals all over the country, but the “big three” Tanabata festivals are in Sendai, Miyagi; Asagaya, Tokyo; and Hiratsuka, Kanagawa. Since all of those are on the eastern side of the country, we’ll also take a look at “Tanabata Evening in Shitennoji Temple,” a special event in Osaka.

  • 03

    Sendai Tanabata Festival

    The Sendai Tanabata Festival dates back to the reign of Date Masamune, the legendary daimyo who ruled Sendai Domain from 1600 to 1636. The festival is actually held from August 6 to 8, to compensate for the difference between the old lunar calendar and today’s solar calendar. During the festival, the city’s shopping arcades are hung with huge, colorful kusudama balls, streamers, and other handmade paper and bamboo decorations. Food and drink vendors set up shop, live performances are held in Kotodai Park and the neighboring Citizen Square. There’s also a fireworks festival over the Hirose River on August 5, the night before the festival.

    Access: Sendai Station on the Akita and Tohoku Shinkansen lines as well as the JR Senzan, Senseki, and Tohoku Main Line.

    Sendai Tanabata Festival
Image courtesy of Miyagi tourist campaign promotion Council

    Sendai Tanabata Festival Image courtesy of Miyagi tourist campaign promotion Council

    Sendai Tanabata Festival
    place
    Miyagi Sendai-shi Aoba-ku Ichibancho 3-chome
    phone
    0222148260
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    Daiwa Roynet Hotel Sendai Ichibancho PREMIER

    4-2-1 Ichibancho, Aoba-ku Sendai Miyagi

    Agoda
    • Daiwa Roynet Hotel Sendai Ichibancho PREMIER
    • Daiwa Roynet Hotel Sendai Ichibancho PREMIER
    • Daiwa Roynet Hotel Sendai Ichibancho PREMIER
    • Daiwa Roynet Hotel Sendai Ichibancho PREMIER
    • Daiwa Roynet Hotel Sendai Ichibancho PREMIER
  • 04

    Asagaya Tanabata Festival

    The Asagaya Tanabata Festival is a more recent entrant to the Japanese calendar, having been founded in 1954. It’s also held in August—August 4 to 8 in 2023—and is best known for the huge paper decorations of cartoon characters on display in the Pearl Center shopping arcade and other parts of this generally refined neighborhood. If you arrive by train, listen out for the jazzy arrangement of the Tanabata song that plays at Asagaya Station. (Why jazzy? Because the area is also famous for the Asagaya Jazz Streets festival held in the fall.)

    Access: Asagaya Station on the JR Chuo Main Line.

    Asagaya Tanabata Festival

    Asagaya Tanabata Festival

    Asagayatanabatamaturi
    place
    Tokyo Met. Suginami-ku Asagayaminami 1-chome
    phone
    0333126181
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    Smile Hotel Tokyo Asagaya

    3-37-11 Asagayaminami, Suginami-ku Tokyo

    Agoda
    • Smile Hotel Tokyo Asagaya
    • Smile Hotel Tokyo Asagaya
    • Smile Hotel Tokyo Asagaya
    • Smile Hotel Tokyo Asagaya
    • Smile Hotel Tokyo Asagaya
  • 05

    Hiratsuka Tanabata Festival

    The Hiratsuka Tanabata Festival is held on a convenient weekend in July—July 7 to 9 in 2023. Well over a million visitors attend each year, making this a huge event. The plans for 2023 call for fewer street food vendors than in pre-pandemic days, but there will be food trucks and, of course, the local bars and restaurants are always available. In the evenings, the extravagant decorations overhead are illuminated for extra romantic charm.

    Access: Hiratsuka Station on the JR Tokaido Line.

    Hiratsuka Tanabata Festival

    Hiratsuka Tanabata Festival

    Shonan Hiratsuka Tanabatamaturi
    place
    Kanagawa Pref. Hiratsukashi Beniyachou
    phone
    0463358107
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    3S Hotel Hiratsuka

    24-9, Akashi-Cho, Hiratsuka-City Kanagawa

    Agoda
    • 3S Hotel Hiratsuka
    • 3S Hotel Hiratsuka
    • 3S Hotel Hiratsuka
    • 3S Hotel Hiratsuka
    • 3S Hotel Hiratsuka
  • 06

    Tanabata Evening in Shitennoji Temple

    This Tanabata event held at Osaka’s venerable Shitennoji Temple began in 2008. The temple grounds are furnished with an overhead “River of Heaven” that lights up between 7 PM and midnight (or 8 PM on the last day) for visitors to enjoy. In 2023, the event will be held from July 7 to 9, and organizers are planning concerts and a big closing bonfire in which everyone’s wishes will be sent up to heaven by the flames.

    Access: Shitennoji-mae Yuhigaoka Station on the Tanimachi Subway Line.

    Tanabata Evening in Shitennoji Temple

    Tanabata Evening in Shitennoji Temple

    Shitennoji Temple
    place
    Osaka Osaka-shi Tennoji-ku Shitennoji 1-chome
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