When the sun is shining, Koenji makes an ideal backdrop for a relaxing day of shopping, eating, drinking, and even bathing.
West of Shinjuku on the JR Chuo and Sobu lines lies Koenji, a decidedly bohemian neighborhood that runs on a similar frequency to Asagaya, Nakano, Kichijoji and other Western Tokyo areas.
Koenji is known for its lively Awa Odori festival in late summer, and has long been home to musicians, writers and visual artists. There really is a wealth of shops and things to do during the day, but here are a few points to get you started:
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Kosugi-yu Sento and Gallery
Although Japan is well known for its onsen hot springs, the availability of such facilities varies based on location. They’re also often on the expensive side, and most have a no-tattoo policy.
Sento (public baths) on the other hand, use regular water, and are cheap and plentiful. There’s no finer example of this wonderful facet of Japanese culture than Kosugi-yu, a pearl that’s been nestled in the folds of the area’s side streets since 1933.![Kosugi-yu Sento]()
Kosugi-yu Sento
Look for the distinctive blue noren curtain with red koi carp. Adults enter for ¥460, and towels are provided. Are tattoos allowed? “Of course!” says Mr. Hiramatsu, the owner. “Why wouldn’t they be?”
Kosugi-yu is exceedingly clean and well maintained and boasts four baths for each gender. The lobby doubles as an art gallery (monthly rotation, three-year waiting list), and yoga and pilates classes are also offered.![]()
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GrapeHouse Koenji - Hostel, - Caters to Women
3-1-5Yamato-cho, Nakano-ku Tokyo
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Koenji Street
For a taste of the area’s eclectic history, visit Koenji Street, a loose and rather ragtag collection of shops that sell everything from used books and records to arts and crafts. This is the antidote to the blinding sheen of upscale areas such as Aoyama and Harajuku, and provides some hint of what Koenji might have been like in decades past.
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Koenji Street
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