Infamous Kabukicho

Kabukicho

It’s a tourist draw, a point of local pride, and one reason so many foreign residents stay put: Japan’s much-touted safety is, generally speaking, a real thing. The stories about wallets being returned are true, and the spectacle of drunk salarymen passed out on the train next to a laptop bag is not uncommon. For those from rougher parts of the world, Japan can feel like a haven from violence and theft.

Kabukicho

That said, even the best of places have their dark sides. Drugs, gambling, and prostitution all exist here － run in large part by organized crime syndicates that, despite the romantic mystique surrounding their depictions in movies, are as dangerous and ruthless as any other criminal organization.

During the Edo Period (1603–1868), there were special districts for illicit activities and today it’s much the same. Among the most infamous in present-day Tokyo is Kabukicho, located a short walk north of JR Shinjuku Station’s East Exit. The name comes from postwar plans to build a theater here for kabuki, a type of traditional Japanese drama. The plans were never realized, but the name stuck.

Kabukicho

There is a lot to say about Kabukicho. It’s typically referred to in English as a “red-light” or “pleasure” district, but such establishments exist here alongside respected restaurants, jazz cafes, pachinko parlors and a brand-new hotel and IMAX movie theater whose façade features a giant Godzilla statue. So we can say for a start that Kabukicho is in flux.

Is it safe to walk around? The answer is yes, with this caveat: The trouble in Kabukicho is the kind you have to go looking for. With your wits firmly about you and your hands all to yourself, a stroll through these streets can be an eye-opening yet safe experience.

Kabukicho

The first thing to be mindful of is the touts. These gentlemen tend to hang around the entry points, and are exceedingly friendly. Their mission is to lure you into bars where you’ll pay through the nose for drinks and hired female company. Recently, overcharging has become a serious problem, and we cannot recommend anything more than the briefest of chats with the touts. “No money, going home,” has been found effective after the third repetition.

Kabukicho

But many establishments, especially well-lit ones along the street, are on the level, and some of the touts represent authentic or chain izakaya. As you walk you’re likely to see the signs of host and hostess bars, establishments where people pay a premium to sit and talk with professionals who pour, share and wipe the sweat off drinks, light cigarettes, and otherwise provide companionship.

Kabukicho

Deeper into the neighborhood, love hotels of varying quality can be found. They are generally cheaper than regular hotels, rooms can be rented for short “rests” of several hours or for the night, and some are themed. Although chiefly intended for romantic digressions, such places are handy if you’ve missed your last train and don’t fancy haunting the coffee shops until dawn.

Kabukicho

In the bigger picture, Kabukicho occupies prime real estate and has been slowly losing its battle against the forces of development and big business. Police have become more visible and active, and there is a push to “clean up” the area ahead of the 2020 Tokyo Olympic and Paralympic Games. Illicit businesses are gradually being displaced, and regrouping has been noticed around the west side of JR Ikebukuro Station.

・Golden Gai – Although technically part of Kabukicho, this little area has a character all its own. A densely packed crisscross of unique bars that seat only a few people each, it’s a local favorite and absolutely worth at least a walkthrough.

・Robot Restaurant – An over-the-top live show involving giant robots. Palatable fare, scantily clad women riding a neon tank. The website says it all.

・Samurai Museum – A new collection of armor, weapons and information about Japan’s famous warrior class. Tranquil, serious, unlike anything else in the area. A taste of things to come?

・Shinjuku Asia Yokocho – A rooftop beer garden comprising bars themed on Asian countries. Cheap, with a variety of foods. To bar hop, simply pay your bill and walk several meters to either side.

・Senkoen Kabukicho – Proper Sichuan Chinese cuisine for those who enjoy trial by fire. Excellent tantanmen (spicy ramen noodle soup).

Photos by Ben Beech

Shinjuku

Tokyo

View All

Go here

Anshin Oyado Tokyo Shinjuku Station - Male Only

4-2-10 Shinjuku-ku Tokyo

• 
• 
• 
• 
•