Cat and Art Island of Ogijima


2019.05.24

NAVITIME TRAVEL EDITOR

Ogijima

Unless you own your own boat access to Ogijima Island, which is situated in the Setouchi Inland Sea, is by passenger ferry only - from the port of Takamatsu in Shikoku.

As the ferry approaches Ogijima, onlookers are greeted with a beautiful and somewhat alluring sight - the island appears to be a lone mountain jutting out of the vast ocean. Creeping up the side of the mountain sit the tiled roofs of a quaint fishing village - sandwiched between the thick green forest above and the turquoise waters below the village possesses a quality that intrigues incoming visitors, and inspires an eagerness to hop off the boat and start exploring.

  • With a population of just 200, the island of Ogijima feels relatively isolated compared to some of its bigger, neighboring islands, like Shodoshima and Teshima. In recent years it has gained a reputation for being one of Japan’s “Cat Islands” too, due to the large number of stray cats that can be found around the village and port – in fact, many visitors come here for the cats, and just the cats!

    Ogijima is also one of the islands that partakes in the Setouchi Trienalle – an art festival that happens every three years across the wider region. As a result various pieces of modern art can be found about the island including the “Walking Ark” on the seafront and colourful walls in the village that have been decorated with painted pieces of discarded lumber and vessels.

    Walking Ark / Keisuke Yamaguchi

    Walking Ark / Keisuke Yamaguchi

    Project for wall painting in lane, ogijima wallalley / Rikuji Makabe

    Project for wall painting in lane, ogijima wallalley / Rikuji Makabe

    Project for wall painting in lane, ogijima wallalley / Rikuji Makabe

    Project for wall painting in lane, ogijima wallalley / Rikuji Makabe

  • All of this makes Ogijima sound like a great place for a day trip, and that it surely is! …but there is a small underlying problem in the village as well. As with many places in the Setouchi Inland Sea, and indeed across rural Japan, Ogijima is suffering from an aging population and a decrease in birthrates. As a result of this, just a few years ago it seemed as if the future of the island was anything but prosperous. Rows of houses, that once belonged to fishermen and local merchants sat disused and empty, the infrastructure of the village slowing falling into disrepair.
    Then, a new generation of residents slowly started to appear, some locals, others from different parts of Japan, and even a few from overseas decided to make Ogijima their new home and help rebuild a community that was (and still is, albeit to a much smaller degree) at risk of becoming a shadow of its former self.

    An abandoned traditional-style house slowly being reclaimed by nature

    An abandoned traditional-style house slowly being reclaimed by nature

    As the community started to grow everyone did their part by bringing something new to the village. One couple decided to build a library to give the locals a chance to read, learn and study in an environment fit for its purpose. Others started farming on the land, providing not only food for the community but also lessons in sustainable living and organic farming.
    A workshop appeared that built, repaired and maintained push-carts for the locals, especially the elderly, to help them transport goods around the narrow, winding village paths. Cafes and restaurants popped up serving local produce and coffees to residents and visitors alike. As more individuals and families arrived the number of children also naturally increased, thus the future of the island started to look bright again.

    Organic farming on the island has been welcomed and very much appreciated

    Organic farming on the island has been welcomed and very much appreciated

    Ogijima Library – not just a place for study, but also to relax

    Ogijima Library – not just a place for study, but also to relax

  • ONBA FACTORY / Photo:Osamu Nakamura

    ONBA FACTORY / Photo:Osamu Nakamura

    The quest for new members of the community continues today too, they are open and very welcoming to others who feel they can bring something to the island and help sustain the positive change that has occurred in recent years. Wondering around the village one can see posters advertising this very fact – “Why not move to Ogi Island?” they read.
    Naturally though, and this should go without saying, the islanders are looking for people who are willing to fully commit to the cause, and plan on staying for the long term. This initiative is about rebuilding a community and sustaining a bright future that lasts for many years to come.

    If however you are not in a position to do so, visitors are of course still more than welcome to come and explore for a few hours, or even a few days. There are plenty of paces to kick back and take it easy. Ogijima is a great place to chill out, unwind and take in the beauty of rural life. Access from mainland Shikoku is hassle free and relatively quick too.

    ACCESS: Ferries depart for Ogijima every two hours from Takamatsu Port in Shikoku. The journey takes about 40 minutes.

  • Ogijima
    place
    Kagawa Takamatsu-shi Ogicho
    phone
    0878730002
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